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82道工序做出一把油紙傘

相鏈區(qū)塊鏈

歷經(jīng)82道繁復(fù)精工,才能手工做出一把湖南非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表石鼓油紙傘,,再給這六代祖?zhèn)鞯睦蟼闳€(gè)很國(guó)潮的名字“蝶戀花”,,放在互聯(lián)網(wǎng)電商平臺(tái)上賣(mài),,“老掉牙”的手藝全網(wǎng)熱賣(mài),,吸引了眾多年輕人,。

It takes 82 complex and meticulous steps to handcraft a Shigu oil-paper umbrella, a representative of the intangible cultural heritage of Hunan. Then, this traditional umbrella passed down through six generations is given a very trendy Chinese-style name, "Butterflies in Love with Flowers", and sold on e-commerce platforms. The "antiquated" craftsmanship has become a hot seller across the whole network, attracting many young people.

誰(shuí)說(shuō)年輕人不愛(ài)老手藝?26歲的長(zhǎng)沙學(xué)院畢業(yè)生周樂(lè),,既守住了祖祖輩輩傳承的湘潭石鼓油紙傘老手藝,又在互聯(lián)網(wǎng)上創(chuàng)業(yè),,把老手藝賣(mài)成年輕人追捧的爆款,,線上平臺(tái)日均銷售量500單,企業(yè)年產(chǎn)值達(dá)1000萬(wàn)元,。

Who says young people have no love for traditional handicrafts?Zhou Le, a 26-year-old graduate of Changsha University, has not only preserved the traditional craftsmanship of the Xiangtan Shigu oil-paper umbrella passed down from generation to generation, but also started a business on the Internet, made them a trendy hit among young consumers. The average daily sales volume on online platforms reaches 500 orders, and the annual revenue value of the enterprise hits 10 million yuan.

自小從父學(xué)藝

Learning the Craftsmanship from His Father Since Childhood

在湘潭縣石鼓鎮(zhèn)安樂(lè)村的宇昌工藝傘業(yè)廠房里,,工人們忙著制傘、畫(huà)傘,。一個(gè)清瘦的小伙子穿梭其中,,不時(shí)躬身指點(diǎn),操作示范,,他就是周樂(lè),。

In the workshop of Yuchang Craft Umbrella Industry in Anle Village, Shigu Town, Xiangtan County, workers are busy crafting and painting umbrellas. A slender young man moves around among them, occasionally bending over to give instructions and demonstrate operations. This is Zhou Le.

一把古法制作的油紙傘要經(jīng)過(guò)82道工序,,幾乎全手工,做一把成傘需要5天以上,。周樂(lè)出身于湘潭制傘世家,,父親周漢宇是湖南省非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)代表性項(xiàng)目——石鼓油紙(布)傘制作技藝的第五代傳承人。

A traditionally crafted oil-paper umbrella requires 82 steps, nearly all of which are completed by hand, and it takes at least five days to produce a single finished umbrella. Zhou Le hails from a family in Xiangtan with a long history of umbrella-making. His father, Zhou Hanyu, is the fifth-generation inheritor of the Shigu Oil-paper (Cloth) Umbrella Making Technique, a representative intangible cultural heritage item of Hunan Province.

油紙傘陪伴周樂(lè)的整個(gè)童年,。他從小跟父親學(xué),,從最簡(jiǎn)單的工序做起,賺取零花錢(qián),,也沒(méi)少挨父親的罵,。有次,周樂(lè)將短傘骨和長(zhǎng)傘骨的位置裝反,,周漢宇用了父親教自己的方式,,讓周樂(lè)重新組裝,然后一遍又一遍,,不斷重復(fù)這道工序,,直至周樂(lè)如同條件反射般地熟記于心?!熬褪悄且淮?,我感受到了傳統(tǒng)手藝每道工序都自有原理,一把油紙傘就是所有材料,、工序的渾然天成,。”

The oil-paper umbrella accompanied Zhou Le throughout his childhood. He learned the craft from his father since he was a child, starting with the simplest procedures to earn pocket money, though he was often scolded by his father. Once, Zhou Le mistakenly swapped the positions of the short and long umbrella ribs. Zhou Hanyu used the method taught by his father, asking Zhou Le to reassemble them, and then repeating this procedure over and over again until Zhou Le memorized it by heart like a conditioned reflex. "It was at that time that I realized that every procedure of the traditional craftsmanship has its own logic, and an oil-paper umbrella is the perfect combination of all its materials and procedures."

新平臺(tái)復(fù)興老手藝

Reviving Traditional Craftsmanship on a New Platform

周樂(lè)說(shuō),,他高考填報(bào)的第一志愿是電子商務(wù),,希望能通過(guò)電商平臺(tái),將父親和鄉(xiāng)親們做的油紙傘賣(mài)得更遠(yuǎn),。由于分?jǐn)?shù)不理想,,他被調(diào)劑到化工材料專業(yè),但他沒(méi)有放棄,,選擇輔修電子商務(wù)專業(yè),。

Zhou Le said that his first choice when filling out the college entrance examination application was e-commerce, as he hoped to use online platforms to sell the oil-paper umbrellas crafted by his father and fellow villagers to a wider market. Due to unsatisfactory scores, he was assigned to the chemical materials major, but he didn't give up and chose to minor in e-commerce.

2018年,才上大二的周樂(lè)與伙伴組建了一支9人的電商團(tuán)隊(duì),,在網(wǎng)上賣(mài)起了油紙傘,。

In 2018, while still a sophomore, Zhou Le teamed up with his partners to form a nine-member e-commerce team and began selling oil-paper umbrellas online.

最初,周樂(lè)只是在大學(xué)閑暇時(shí)間,,為父親的油紙傘拓寬網(wǎng)上銷路,。但他沒(méi)想到,在運(yùn)營(yíng)兩三年后,,拼多多上的店鋪每天都能銷售四五百把油紙傘,,還常常爆單,。而當(dāng)父親的線下實(shí)體店受到疫情影響時(shí),自己的網(wǎng)店成了油紙傘的主要銷售渠道,。

At first, Zhou Le just worked on expanding the online sales channels for his father's oil-paper umbrellas during his spare time at college. To his surprise, after two or three years of operation, his store on Pinduoduo could sell four or five hundred oil-paper umbrellas every day, and there were often overwhelming orders. When his father's offline physical store was affected by the pandemic, Zhou Le’s online store became the main sales channel for their oil-paper umbrellas.

依托開(kāi)福區(qū)長(zhǎng)沙學(xué)院創(chuàng)新創(chuàng)業(yè)基地,,周樂(lè)創(chuàng)立晨梁電商工作室。大學(xué)畢業(yè)后,,他帶著同學(xué)主動(dòng)擔(dān)負(fù)起家鄉(xiāng)油紙傘研發(fā)與市場(chǎng)營(yíng)銷重任,。團(tuán)隊(duì)中,有人擅長(zhǎng)攝影,,負(fù)責(zé)拍攝各種古風(fēng)視頻和圖片,,作為商品主圖;有人擅長(zhǎng)做內(nèi)容運(yùn)營(yíng),,在抖音,、小紅書(shū)等年輕人聚集的社交平臺(tái)帶貨。作為石鼓油紙傘的第六代傳承人,,周樂(lè)認(rèn)為,,自己成了不同于父親的新一代“匠人”?!罢撌炙?,我沒(méi)有父親精,但我懂得運(yùn)用新平臺(tái)新技術(shù),,讓更多人知道并喜歡石鼓油紙傘,。”

Leveraging the Innovation and Entrepreneurship Base of Changsha University in Kaifu District, Zhou Le established the Chenliang E-commerce Studio. After graduating from university, he and his classmates took on the responsibility of developing and marketing the oil-paper umbrellas from his hometown. In the team, some people are good at photography and are responsible for shooting various ancient-style videos and pictures for product listings; some people are good at content operation and promote sales on social platforms like TikTok and Xiaohongshu, where young people gather. As the sixth-generation inheritor of the Shigu Oil-paper Umbrella, Zhou Le regards himself as a new-generation "craftsman", distinct from his father. "In terms of craftsmanship, I'm not as skilled as my father, but I know how to use new platforms and technologies to make the Shigu oil-paper umbrella known and loved by more people."

融合國(guó)潮取名文藝范

Blending Chinese Trends and Naming with an Artistic Style

在自家店的石鼓油紙傘上架前,,周樂(lè)發(fā)現(xiàn)其他網(wǎng)上油紙傘店鋪都用“1號(hào)傘”“2號(hào)傘”這種簡(jiǎn)單的方式命名,。而作為傳統(tǒng)手藝的代表,油紙傘承載著豐富的文化內(nèi)涵,,應(yīng)該有更文藝范兒的命名方式,。

Before listing the Shigu oil-paper umbrellas in his own store, Zhou Le found that other online oil-paper umbrella stores named their products in a simple way like "Umbrella No. 1" and "Umbrella No. 2". As a representative of traditional craftsmanship, the oil-paper umbrella carries rich cultural connotations and should have a more artistic naming method.

某天正在看古詩(shī)詞的周樂(lè)突然靈機(jī)一動(dòng):何不用古典詩(shī)詞給油紙傘命名?于是,,他家的油紙傘,,成為拼多多平臺(tái)上最早一批擁有詩(shī)意名字的商品,迅速吸引一大波年輕消費(fèi)者,、漢服文化愛(ài)好者。

One day, while reading classical poems, Zhou Le suddenly had an idea: Why not name the oil-paper umbrellas with classical poems? As a result, his family's oil-paper umbrellas became one of the earliest products on the Pinduoduo platform to have poetic names. They quickly attracted a large number of young consumers and lovers of Hanfu culture.

作為非遺代表性傳承人,,周樂(lè)深知,,傳統(tǒng)技藝面臨著技藝傳承與市場(chǎng)接受度的雙重挑戰(zhàn)?!拔业哪繕?biāo)消費(fèi)者很明確,,就是喜歡古風(fēng)國(guó)潮的年輕人,。”在大學(xué)的漢服社和國(guó)學(xué)社,,他發(fā)現(xiàn),,傳統(tǒng)文化很受和自己同齡的年輕一代歡迎,自家的油紙傘作為傳統(tǒng)技藝的代表,,和當(dāng)下流行的漢服國(guó)潮很搭,!他將傳統(tǒng)技藝與現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)相結(jié)合,為傳統(tǒng)油紙傘植入動(dòng)漫,、國(guó)風(fēng)等“新元素”,,滿足年輕群體中“二次元”和古裝文化愛(ài)好者的需求,開(kāi)發(fā)出既具有傳統(tǒng)韻味又符合現(xiàn)代審美的產(chǎn)品,。

As a representative inheritor of intangible cultural heritage, Zhou Le is well aware that traditional techniques face dual challenges: passing down the techniques and gaining market acceptance. "My target consumers are very clear, that is, young people who like ancient styles and Chinese trends." In Hanfu clubs and traditional Chinese culture clubs at university, he found that traditional culture is very popular among young people of his own age. His family's oil-paper umbrellas, as a representative of traditional techniques, matches well with the current popular Hanfu and Chinese trends! He combines traditional techniques with modern designs, implants "new elements" such as animations and Chinese styles into traditional oil-paper umbrellas to meet the needs of the "two-dimensional" and lovers of ancient costume culture among the young group, and develops products that not only have traditional charm but also conform to modern aesthetics.

“油紙傘需要刷桐油才能防水,,但桐油氣味較大?!敝軜?lè)說(shuō),,目前他正和大學(xué)的化工專業(yè)老師科研攻關(guān),研究用活性炭分解桐油氣味,,并凈化空氣,。類似這樣,他對(duì)傘面材料,、傘內(nèi)部穿線方式等進(jìn)行創(chuàng)新,,使非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)更大程度地融入市場(chǎng)。

"An oil-paper umbrella needs to be brushed with tung oil to be waterproof, but tung oil has a strong odor." Zhou Le said that currently he is collaborating with chemical engineering professors at the university to conduct research, exploring the use of activated carbon to neutralize the smell of tung oil and purify the air. Similarly, he innovates the materials of the umbrella surface, the threading method inside the umbrella, etc., to better integrate this intangible cultural heritage into the modern market.

2021年底,,周樂(lè)開(kāi)始手把手傳授新徒弟的油紙傘制作技藝教學(xué)任務(wù),。同時(shí),他還打造了石鼓油紙傘研學(xué)基地,,設(shè)計(jì)了一整套油紙傘制作研學(xué)材料包,,開(kāi)展學(xué)生研學(xué)實(shí)踐活動(dòng),累計(jì)接待研學(xué)活動(dòng)超10萬(wàn)人次,。很多油紙傘作品,,均是湘潭大學(xué)、湖南科技大學(xué)和湖南工程學(xué)院等高校學(xué)子設(shè)計(jì),。通過(guò)線上線下相結(jié)合,,讓更多人了解和學(xué)習(xí)傳統(tǒng)技藝。

At the end of 2021, Zhou Le began to teach new apprentices the oil-paper umbrella making technique in person. At the same time, he also established the Shigu Oil-Paper Umbrella Research and Learning Base, designed a complete set of educational kits for oil-paper umbrella making, and carried out research and study practice activities for students. To date, the base has hosted over 100,000 participants in these activities. Many oil-paper umbrella works were designed by students from universities such as Xiangtan University, Hunan University of Science and Technology, and Hunan Institute of Engineering. By combining online and offline methods, Zhou Le has enabled more people to understand and learn about this traditional craft.

【Author:】 【Editor:黃慧瑩】